Actually thats not totally true because I do use search.cpan.org but via CPANTools which provides a nice suggest dropdown as you type in the search textbox.

Another place I occasionally go to is KobeSearch but I prefer the standard CPAN look (a true design classic IMHO) to the uwinnipeg.ca one.

For something really shiny have a look at CPANTools Beta

/I3az/

Update: Nearly forgot this excellent custom Google search. Also note there is also a Perl custom search.